As summer winds down, I start looking at some of my favorite garden plants a little differently. Instead of letting the first frost take them, I ask myself, “Is this one worth bringing indoors for winter?”
For many tender favorites, the answer is yes. Learning how to overwinter plants indoors can help you save geraniums, begonias, impatiens, coleus, and other favorites for next year’s garden. Some continue growing happily as houseplants, while others are better treated as dormant plants.
The trick is knowing which plants are worth saving and what each one needs once it comes indoors.
When Should You Bring Garden Plants Indoors?
Don’t wait for the first frost to arrive. I like to move tender plants indoors when nighttime temperatures are consistently dropping into the 50s°F, especially if a cold snap is predicted. A plant that has been growing happily outside can struggle if you wait until it has already been chilled or damaged by frost.
Before bringing anything inside, inspect it carefully for aphids, whiteflies, spider mites, scale, and other pests. I learned a long time ago that one little plant can bring a surprising number of unwanted visitors into the house. If you have been dealing with aphids in the garden this year, give your plants an especially careful inspection before they come inside. I wrote more about dealing with them in [Why Are Aphids So Bad This Year?]Why Are Aphids So Bad This Year?.
1. Geraniums (Pelargonium)
USDA Zones: 10–11 outdoors
Typical size: 12–24 inches tall and wide
Bloom time: Late spring through fall outdoors
Geraniums are one of my favorite plants to overwinter because they are surprisingly forgiving. The common garden geranium, or zonal geranium (Pelargonium), isn’t hardy in cold climates, but it can live for years when protected from freezing temperatures.
Before bringing a geranium inside, I cut it back by about one-third to one-half. Remove yellow or damaged leaves and check carefully around the stems for insects. Place it in your brightest window. Geraniums can continue growing and even flowering indoors, although the growth will usually be slower and the blooms less impressive than they are outdoors. Keep the soil on the dry side between waterings. Overwatering is one of the easiest ways to lose an overwintered geranium.
Pruning: Late summer or early fall before bringing indoors, with another light trim in late winter if the plant becomes leggy.
Common issues: Leggy growth, yellow leaves, root rot, aphids, and whiteflies.
Division: Geraniums aren’t normally divided. Instead, take stem cuttings in late summer or early fall if you want several plants for next season.
2. Begonias
USDA Zones: Generally 8–11, depending on type
Typical size: 8–24 inches, although some types grow considerably larger
Bloom time: Summer through fall
Begonias are a little more complicated because there are so many different types. Wax begonias, angel wing begonias, rex begonias, and tuberous begonias all have somewhat different winter needs.
Tender fibrous begonias can be brought indoors and grown as houseplants. Give them bright, indirect light and avoid keeping the soil constantly wet.
Tuberous begonias are different. Let the foliage die back naturally after the first frost threatens, then dig and dry the tubers before storing them in a cool, dark, dry location for winter. They can be started again in late winter or early spring.
Pruning: Trim leggy stems when bringing fibrous begonias indoors. Tuberous begonias should be allowed to go dormant rather than repeatedly pruned.
Common issues: Root rot, powdery mildew, mealybugs, and leggy growth.
Division: Tuberous begonias can be divided in spring when growth begins, provided each section has a viable bud or eye. Don’t divide them on a fixed yearly schedule if the tubers are small.
3. Impatiens
USDA Zones: 10–11 outdoors
Typical size: 8–24 inches tall and wide
Bloom time: Late spring through frost
Impatiens are one of those plants that can surprise you indoors. They aren’t always the easiest annual to overwinter, but a healthy plant can continue growing in a warm, bright room.
Before bringing impatiens inside, cut them back by about one-third. This helps make the plant more manageable and encourages fresh growth. Give them bright, indirect light and keep the soil evenly moist without making it soggy. They appreciate humidity, which can make a dry heated house challenging during winter.
One advantage of bringing impatiens indoors is that you can also take cuttings. Healthy stem cuttings root readily, giving you young plants to grow on for spring.
Pruning: Early fall when bringing indoors, then pinch growing tips through winter if the plant becomes leggy.
Common issues: Spider mites, aphids, fungus gnats, root rot, and insufficient light.
Division: Division isn’t practical. Propagate impatiens from stem cuttings instead.
4. Coleus
USDA Zones: 10–11 outdoors
Typical size: 1–3 feet tall, depending on variety
Bloom time: Mainly grown for foliage, although flowers appear in summer and fall
If I had to choose one plant that is particularly easy to save, coleus would be near the top of my list.
Coleus doesn’t need to flower indoors to be worthwhile. Its colorful foliage can brighten up a windowsill all winter, and you can take cuttings to create multiple plants for next year’s garden.
I like to prune coleus fairly hard before bringing it inside, especially if it has become tall and floppy. Take healthy stem cuttings and root them in water or a lightweight growing medium.
Give the plants plenty of light, but don’t put them against a freezing window on a cold night.
Pruning: Cut back in early fall before bringing indoors. Pinch growing tips throughout winter to encourage branching.
Common issues: Leggy growth, aphids, spider mites, and root rot.
Division: Not normally divided. Stem cuttings are the easiest way to multiply plants.
5. Fuchsias
USDA Zones: Approximately 8–10, depending on species and cultivar
Typical size: 1–3 feet tall, with trailing varieties spreading farther
Bloom time: Summer through fall
Fuchsias are beautiful container plants, and they’re well worth saving if you have a variety you particularly love.
They prefer cooler indoor conditions than many tropical plants. A bright room that isn’t overly warm is ideal. Reduce watering during winter, but don’t allow the roots to become completely dry. Fuchsias can become quite leggy indoors, so don’t be afraid to prune them
Fuchsias can also be overwintered semi-dormant in a cool location with limited light. In that situation, water sparingly and don’t encourage new growth until late winter.
Pruning: Light pruning in fall if necessary, followed by harder pruning in late winter.
Common issues: Whiteflies, spider mites, aphids, and root problems caused by excess moisture.
Division: Division isn’t generally used. Take cuttings in spring or late summer if you want additional plants.
6. Lantana
USDA Zones: 9–11 outdoors
Typical size: 2–6 feet depending on variety and growing conditions
Bloom time: Late spring through fall
Lantana is another summer favorite that can become a surprisingly good winter plant. Before bringing it indoors, cut the plant back by roughly one-third to one-half. I wouldn’t try to keep it looking like a full, flowering patio plant all winter. The goal is to keep the plant healthy until spring.
Give it the brightest window you have. Lantana likes plenty of light, and inadequate light can result in weak, stretched growth. During winter, reduce watering and avoid keeping the soil constantly wet. A cool, bright location works well if you want to slow the plant down.
Pruning: Cut back in fall before bringing indoors, with another pruning in late winter.
Common issues: Whiteflies, spider mites, aphids, and leggy growth.
Division: Division isn’t usually practical. Propagation from stem cuttings is the better approach.
7. Angelonia
USDA Zones: 9–11 outdoors
Typical size: 12–24 inches tall and wide
Bloom time: Summer through fall
Angelonia, sometimes called summer snapdragon, is one plant I would consider a little more challenging to overwinter indoors. It needs strong light and warmth, and it may not flower as heavily inside as it does outdoors. If you have a particularly beautiful plant, though, it can be worth saving.
Cut the plant back somewhat before bringing it inside and place it in your brightest location. Water when the surface of the potting mix begins to dry, rather than keeping it constantly wet.
If you don’t have enough indoor light, taking cuttings can be more practical than trying to maintain a large mature plant.
Pruning: Trim lightly in fall and prune more substantially in late winter as new growth begins.
Common issues: Leggy growth, aphids, whiteflies, and root rot.
Division: Not generally divided. Stem cuttings are the better propagation method.
8. Persian Shield
USDA Zones: 8–11 outdoors
Typical size: 3–4 feet tall outdoors, smaller in containers
Bloom time: Occasionally late summer or fall, but primarily grown for foliage
Persian shield is grown for its gorgeous purple and silver foliage, so you don’t have to worry about keeping it in bloom indoors.
It appreciates warmth, humidity, and bright, indirect light. In a dry winter house, placing it near other plants or using a humidifier can help, although good air circulation is still important.
Cut Persian shield back before bringing it indoors. This keeps the plant compact and gives it a chance to produce fresh growth. Pinching the tips through winter also helps prevent the long, bare stems that can develop when indoor light is less intense.
Pruning: Cut back in fall, then pinch regularly through winter.
Common issues: Spider mites, aphids, dry air, and leggy growth.
Division: Division isn’t usually necessary. Stem cuttings are easy to root if you want backup plants.
9. Caladiums
USDA Zones: 9–11 outdoors
Typical size: 12–24 inches tall and wide
Bloom time: Summer, although the foliage is the main attraction
Caladiums are different from most plants on this list because you won’t try to keep them actively growing all winter.
If you grow caladiums in a cold climate, dig the tubers after the foliage begins to decline in fall and before hard frost. Allow them to dry for several days, then store them somewhere warm enough to prevent chilling, dry, and protected from freezing.
This dormant period is actually what makes caladiums so easy to save. You don’t need a sunny windowsill or a giant indoor plant taking over your living room. In late winter or early spring, inspect the tubers and start them indoors when you’re ready to get a jump on the growing season.
Pruning: Allow foliage to die back naturally before removing it and storing the tubers.
Common issues: Tubers rotting in storage, chilling injury, and premature sprouting.
Division: Divide tubers in spring when they are beginning to sprout. Each section needs a healthy growing point.
10. Sweet Potato Vine
USDA Zones: 9–11 outdoors
Typical size: 6–12 inches tall, with vines that can spread several feet
Bloom time: Usually grown for foliage rather than flowers
Sweet potato vine is another plant that can be saved, although it has a tendency to take over indoors if you let it. Before bringing it inside, cut the vines back and take several healthy cuttings. You can root them in water or soil and grow compact plants over winter.
Give them as much light as possible. If the vines become long and thin, pinch them back rather than allowing them to trail halfway across the room. Cuttings are easier to manage than trying to keep a huge outdoor plant alive all winter.
Pruning: Cut back heavily in fall and pinch new growth through winter.
Common issues: Spider mites, whiteflies, fungus gnats, and leggy growth.
Division: Don’t divide the ornamental varieties unless you’re specifically saving tubers. Stem cuttings are much easier for producing new plants.
How to Overwinter Plants Indoors Before Winter
There are three things I do before any plant crosses the threshold into my house.
First, inspect it carefully. Look underneath leaves, around leaf joints, and along stems. Pests love hiding in those little protected spaces.
Second, prune it. Removing some of the outdoor growth makes the transition easier and gives you a more manageable plant indoors.
Third, give it time to adjust. A plant that has been sitting in full sun all summer doesn’t necessarily want to be placed immediately in a dim corner of the house. Move it to a brighter, sheltered location first if possible.
I also avoid bringing in garden soil whenever I can. If a plant needs repotting, use clean, fresh potting mix rather than simply moving garden soil into the house.
What Is the Best Place for Overwintered Plants?
A sunny window is helpful, but it isn’t always enough. South- and west-facing windows generally provide the most natural light, although plants should be kept away from cold glass during freezing weather. If natural light is limited, a grow light can make an enormous difference.
Keep plants away from heating vents and radiators. The combination of hot, dry air and inconsistent watering is rough on many plants.
And don’t assume every plant wants the same amount of water. A geranium that likes to dry somewhat between waterings has very different needs from an impatiens that prefers more consistent moisture.
Can You Put These Plants Back Outside in Spring?
Yes, but don’t rush the process. Once temperatures are reliably warm, gradually move the plants outdoors. Start with a sheltered, shaded location and slowly increase their exposure to sunlight and wind.
This is the same basic process I use when acclimating young plants. If you’d like a step-by-step guide, see How to Harden Off Plants. Give them about a week or more to adjust, depending on the weather and how tender the plant is.
FAQ – How to Overwinter Plants Indoors
Can I bring annual flowers indoors for winter?
Yes. Some annuals, particularly tender plants such as geraniums, impatiens, coleus, and lantana, can survive indoors for another season. Others are better propagated from cuttings or stored as bulbs or tubers.
When should I bring plants inside for winter?
Bring tender plants inside before frost and preferably before nighttime temperatures regularly fall into the 50s°F. Waiting until frost damage occurs can make overwintering much harder.
Should I fertilize plants during winter?
Usually, very little. Plants growing slowly in lower winter light don’t need the same amount of fertilizer they needed during summer. I generally wait until plants begin actively growing again in late winter or spring before increasing feeding.
Why are my plants getting leggy indoors?
The most common culprit is inadequate light. Even a bright-looking room can be much darker than an outdoor garden. Pruning helps, but moving the plant closer to a good light source is the long-term solution.
Do I need to divide plants before bringing them indoors?
Usually not. Most plants on this list are better propagated from stem cuttings. Caladiums and tuberous begonias are the exceptions, since their underground structures can be divided when they begin growing again.
Which Plants Are Worth Saving?
I don’t try to save every plant in my garden. Some simply aren’t worth the space, effort, and attention required indoors.
But when I have a particularly beautiful geranium, a favorite coleus, a special begonia, or another plant that I know will give me a head start next spring, I am happy to make room for it.
That’s one of the little pleasures of gardening. With a bit of planning in September and October, you can turn one season’s plants into next year’s garden instead of starting completely from scratch.
And if you’re interested in growing more flowers indoors during the winter, my guide to How to Start Flower Seeds Indoors will help you get a jump on spring.
